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Best time to go

Most guidebooks advise to avoid the monsoon (May to October), as Cambodia turns to mud. However, there is a lot to be said about traveling during this time of year. Landscapes turn lush and vibrant green, and fewer tourists are around. The most comfortable temperatures are to be had December through February, the cold and dry season, but lack of rain also causes the country to turn to dust, rice fields turn yellow and tourist numbers are at its peak.

Kampot Rice paddy during the monsoon season

Luggage

Depending on your preferred method of transport, choose a way of lugging around that is comfortable and light. If you plan on traveling by any form of transport but private taxis, avoid heavy and uncomforatble luggage. Trying to find your accommodation with heavy luggage in tow in the baking sun is perhaps not how you expected your lovely afternoon to be spent.

Getting to and from Cambodia

By air, International Flights

Phnom Penh

Pochentong International Airport
Departure tax for international flights: $25.00

Direct Flights

Daily flights from Bangkok, Beijing, Taipei, Guangzhou, Hanoi, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur, Ho Chi Minh City, Singapore, Shanghai (three flights per week), Taipei, Vientiane and Incheon. For more information on airlines and departure times, check the 'Cambodia: Airlines and Flight Schedule' on the Canby Cambodia Guides website.

Siem Reap

Siem Reap Airport
Departure tax for international flights: $25.00

Direct Flights

Daily flights from Bangkok, Hanoi, Kuala Lumpur, Ho Chi Minh City, Singapore, Vientiane and Incheon. For more information on airlines and departure times, check the 'Cambodia: Airlines and Flight Schedule' on the Canby Cambodia Guides website.

Customs

Every passenger has to complete an immigration form and a separate customs declaration form during the arrival flight, for submission upon arrival. Any amount of foreign currency can be brought into Cambodia, but the amount of local currency (Cambodian riel) must not exceed 100,000 riel per person. Tourists and non-residents carrying more than US$10,000 in cash or its equivalent must declare it - otherwise you may run into problems if you wish to take the same amount out of the country.

By air, Domestic Flights

Phnom Penh

Pochentong International Airport
Daily flights to and from Siem Reap and three flights a week to and from Banlung (Rattanakiri Province). Departure tax for domestic flights is $10.00.

Siem Reap

Siem Reap Airport
Daily flights to and from Phnom Penh. Three flights a week to and from Sihanoukville (Kampong Som). Departure tax for domestic flights is $6.00.

Banlung

Banlung Airport
Three flights a week to and from Phnom Penh. Departure tax for domestic flights is $6.00.

Sihanoukville

Sihanoukville Airport
Three flights a week to and from Siem Reap. Departure tax for domestic flights is $6.00. These flights are currently suspended due to the June 2007 plane crash.

Visas

All foreign passport holders, except Malaysians (max. 30 days), Phillipinos (max. 21 days) and Singaporeans, need a visa to enter Cambodia. Also, your passport needs to be valid for at least another 4 months.
A 30-day tourist visa (type 'T') costs $20.00 ($25.00 if arranging through the new E-visa system), whereas a 30-day business visa (type 'E') will set you back $25.00
One 4x6 passport photo is required.

For up to date international overland border crossings and visa details, please visit www.canbypublications.com or click the link below

Obtaining a Cambodian visa

1. Through the Cambodian Embassy in your country. Be careful if you choose to purchase your visa in your homecountry - the three month visa can cause problems.

2. At Pochentong (Phnom Penh) International Airport and at Siem Reap International Airport

3. Via internet: the new e-Visa
The Cambodian Ministry of Foreign Affairs now offers 'e-visa' - visas available online through the Ministry's website. Scan of passport and passport size photo required. Payment by credit card. US$25 for a 30 day visa (three month validity.) Processing time: 3 days. Issued by email and print from your computer. The Ministry recently announced that e-visa entry points now include Siem Reap International Airport, Phnom Penh International Airport, the Bavet/Moc Bai border crossing, the Poipet/Aranyaprathet border crossing and the Koh Kong/Had Lek border crossing. See the Ministry website at:

4. At the border
For an up-to-date overview of international border crossings, visa costs and whether or not it is possible to buy your required visas at the border, check www.canbypublications.com.

Visa extension

Tourist Visas can be extended once, for another 30 days. Business Visas however can be extended indefinitely. The 'Department for Foreigners', directly opposite Pochentong (Phnom Penh) International Airport or travel agents in Phnom Penh can arrange the extension.

Visa overstay

$ 5.00 per day

Traffic and Roads

Roads

Roads are being repaired, built, extended etc. Unfortunately, rain and heavy traffic deteriote these roads again. Broken bridges are not scams, they just happen out here. Damage to bridges is usually to blame on wear and tear or overly loaded trucks. In 2006, the large bridge between Kampot and Kep collapsed when a salt truck with a load twice the limit crossed it. Within an hour, locals had arranged boats to transport people, motorbikes, pushbikes and possibly lifestock across the river.

Kampot Kep Bridge Collapse February 2006

Traffic Rules

Cambodian traffic may seem choatic, but after a few days you will have worked out some basic rules. Firstly, there is a rule of size. Smaller vehicles give way to larger ones. Secondly, you will find plenty of traffic riding and driving on the 'wrong' side of the road. Nothing unusual here, the driver will simply keep riding there until he finds enough space to cross the road to get to where he should be.

Crossing a street being a pedestrian is easiest when done slowly, at a steady speed, so drivers can anticipate and avoid colliding (just). Never resort to running across a street.
Keep your eyes open in traffic, there's plenty to see out there: a colourful assortment of homemade vehicles, animal powered carts, car & motorbike pooling to the extreme and flashy cars with flashier lights.

Modes of Transport

Plane

See the above section 'By Air: Domestic Flights'

Private taxi

It is possible to rent a whole taxi, which is most likely to leave whenever you wish. Check your accommodation or the local taxi stand for prices.

Shared Taxi

A ‘shared’ taxi generally means that you share a car with 6 or 7 other passengers and a driver. For more comfort, opt for the passenger seat (usually seat two) or the whole back seat (usually seats 4). Shared taxis leave when filled up. Don't be surprised when the driver ends up sharing his seat with a passenger as well.
Make clear arrangements about destination and price to avoid surprises or disagreements at the end of the trip.

Buses

Most cities are connected by a bus service. Tickets can often be booked through your accommodation, otherwise try at the main market in town.

Minivans

These work as shared taxis, are cheaper, and even more crowded than taxi's as the roof is being used to transport people, animals and goods. You mostly find these gathered around central markets, your best bet is (early) in the morning.

Vehicle rental

Renting a motorbike is the most practical self-drive option for Cambodia's poor provincial roads. At the rental shops in Phnom Penh, you can pick up a fairly good 250cc trials bike ($7.00 per day), which should be able to handle most terrain. Cars tend to come with a driver. They're almost exclusively white Toyota Camrys, and cost a reasonable $30.00 to $40.00 per day.

If you do intend to self-drive any vehicle in Cambodia, bear in mind that road conditions are unpredictable. Your journey may take much longer than you anticipate, you should never travel alone, and it's a good idea to carry food and water. Really, it's only practical if you've had extensive experience with driving in Southeast Asia already.

Driving

Right hand side; International Driving Permit required

By train

Travel by train is cheap but the routes are limited. It's popular with budget travellers, and while it can be fun for an hour, after a while it becomes tedious and pretty uncomfortable – the only seating is on hard wooden benches, and traveling speed is very slow. There are no reservations, so you'll need to turn up early to stand a chance of a seat, though don't expect the train to leave on time. Some trains consist only of cargo carriages, so a hammock can be useful. Men usually sit on the roof of busy trains.
There are just two narrow-gauge railway lines in Cambodia: one from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville (currently not running for passengers due to bad track conditions); the other from Phnom Penh to Battambang. Trains are a good place to meet and talk to locals, and you'll probably be the centre of attention, as foreigners on trains are still very much a novelty. It's a good idea to take food and water, although hawkers sell food along the way.

By boat

Boats are an easy way to travel to areas on the Tonle Sap, Mekong River and south coast. On the whole, Malaysian-made express boats are used – a cross between an old school bus and a torpedo. The ride is more comfortable (and much faster) than pick-ups or trains, but conditions are still fairly cramped, so don't expect the luxury that the foreigner prices imply. Many tourists opt to sit on the roof for the views. If you plan on doing so, apply plenty of sunscreen, drink lots of water and wear sunglasses and sunhat. The combination of heat, sun, wind and waterglare can cause dehydration and sunburn. Some boat routes along the Mekong have recently been dropped due to the improvement of the road system that parallels the river. Also, some routes may not be navigable in the dry season, when the water level falls.

Tuk tuk

Our preferred way to travel around: the comfort of a car combined with the fact that you are in the open air hearing and smelling all that's happening around you.

Cycling

A great country to cycle through, especially the area surrounding Kampot. For true die-hards , Bokor Mountain is quite a ride up. Suitable for the best of mountainbikes only. For more information have a look at Mr. Pumpy's site full of information on cycling through Cambodia. www.mrpumpy.net

By foot

Walking is a great way of seeing, feeling, hearing and smelling Cambodia. You might have to take your stroll to the road as pavements are often used for parking and for eateries. Keep you eyes on your feet as much as on the scenery, as paving does not always exist or sewage lids might be broken or missing.


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